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Post by bluelacedredhead on Jan 4, 2011 17:38:44 GMT -6
Considering that 2 years ago it was an old road allowance, mostly gravel and clay, the squirrels and the Leaf Mold I've added have shown definite improvement. Which has done the most for amending the soil? Sorry, I haven't been able to ascertain  |
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Post by jerseycub on Jan 1, 2012 15:31:57 GMT -6
 Laid out about 5-6" of horse manure on the upper field to till in the ground and let it do it's thing, but I am only planting a cover crop on it in the spring of Sudex that I will mow a few times and then till again in the fall. That may slow the process of decomposing but I don't think by much.
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Post by coppice on Jan 2, 2012 7:35:15 GMT -6
So do shredded leaves have a NPK value? DLD, I'm reciting from memory (and can therefor be wrong) but its something like .75, .5, .5, The percentages are low but pretty even. Making it a fair fertilize because it gets used liberally. |
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Jan 2, 2012 10:14:30 GMT -6
reckon I never did search for that post DLD, sorry..Coppice is right in the ballpark though, and, it depends on the tree species, the growing conditions..Only info I have on file (since computer crashed) is Oak leaves, approximate NPK is 0.8-0.35-0.2
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Post by Compost Pharmer on Jan 2, 2012 16:45:33 GMT -6
 Leaves and coffee grounds make an excellent compost. I have spent the last 2 days screening, (sifting), a couple of bins full of compost for both gardens. It sure is black and smells good.
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Post by jerseycub on Jan 8, 2012 7:48:39 GMT -6
Straight leaf mulch gives you lots of carbon, but not much else eventually you will need to add other sources of nutrients to balance the benefits of composting. What Compost Pharmer is doing by mixing coffee grounds is adding some N to the mix, If you add spent tea leaves there is even more N in them. Just adding leaves works better in heavy soil then sandy loom were nutrients leach out faster. Leaves are great for adding humus to heavy soil.
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Post by redneckplanter on Mar 27, 2012 23:51:12 GMT -6
leaves and hay playuhs////grins
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Post by redneckplanter on Mar 27, 2012 23:51:48 GMT -6
experimenting with logs this next season too....
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Post by jerseycub on Nov 10, 2012 14:58:45 GMT -6
Composting on a large scale can be rather difficult without the proper equipment to keep it working....ie turned so it continues to work on decomposing. I add leaves and clippings all season long as well as garden waste and household waste.
The horse manure I tilled into my upper field in Jan. of this year is still decomposing, it takes some time for the products in the stall manure to decompose as well.
On a large scale it would be wise to do a soil test for organic matter as well as your other elements. Since I have started paying attention to these things my crops have more then doubled in production.
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Nov 12, 2012 4:41:29 GMT -6
Composting on a large scale can be rather difficult without the proper equipment to keep it working....ie turned so it continues to work on decomposing. I add leaves and clippings all season long as well as garden waste and household waste. The horse manure I tilled into my upper field in Jan. of this year is still decomposing, it takes some time for the products in the stall manure to decompose as well. On a large scale it would be wise to do a soil test for organic matter as well as your other elements. Since I have started paying attention to these things my crops have more then doubled in production. Great Joe, and to think, you are seeing the benefits of the 15% of active materials in the compost/manure...the rest is stable and feeds your plants kinda like time release... It takes alot of composting to get enough to make a difference on a operation your size. I wish I had a small tractor or skid loader to windrow compost a huge pile like this...  Man that's some compost... ifin Ya have a moment check out this read Jc: www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/cropsystems/components/7402_02.html |
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Post by jerseycub on Nov 12, 2012 7:27:44 GMT -6
Phil:
That is some excellent information on composting and materials, and how it all works. This is for sure. You supply everyone here with great information. I hope they all take advantage of these things. I know I look forward to picking your brain for these great tidbits.
Soil testing is very important in the process so you can keep a good handle on what's happening with your soil.
My composting isn't as large as what you have pictured. However it's about 20tons of material that I am working with at all times. I wish I could do twice that.
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Nov 13, 2012 9:22:32 GMT -6
Thanks Jc, I'll be doing a lot more info reading now dat winter is setting in...20 tons..is quite a bit of compost bro...wishin I had that much and a small tractor to move it around...
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Post by jerseycub on Dec 6, 2012 12:08:20 GMT -6
Phil: Sorry that I am a little slow at reading these posts but, I get around to them sooner or later. I have two compact tractors as it were. A 1952 Farmall Cub and a IH 154 Lo-Boy. They are worked every season. I am looking to buy a Tractor with a loader bucket and three point Rotovator to replace my 154 Lo-Boy. The loader bucket will be much more useful. Just have to work on some Cash, that is the hard part.
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Post by Compost Pharmer on Dec 6, 2012 17:24:30 GMT -6
 If you guys are interested in large scale composting, read 'The Secret Life of Compost' by Malcolm Beck. He started Garden-Ville in the 50's, but has since sold it. Good reading.
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Post by jerseycub on Dec 7, 2012 7:41:52 GMT -6
Compost Pharmer: I just scanned that book on Amazon for $17.50. Lots of good information as you say a good read.
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Post by Compost Pharmer on Dec 7, 2012 16:55:20 GMT -6
JC,
I went to one of Malcolm Beck's seminars a few years ago. When he speaks, he grabs your attention. Before you know it, an hour has gone by. Real interesting person. He explained how he, and his wife, started Garden-Ville, and how he even composted a whole cow in one of his piles. I believe that is in the book. You will enjoy it.
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