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Post by mogarden on Mar 31, 2012 17:28:34 GMT -6
Here's a pic of the first hot pepper of this season, a Numex Bailey's chili pequin* (correction, Centennial).
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Post by mogarden on Mar 31, 2012 17:32:34 GMT -6
And here's the Early Girl plant I set out about 10 days ago.
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Post by Garden Happy on Apr 1, 2012 4:41:48 GMT -6
Love the numex,those grow like crazy here. I have a variety from the Philippines that looks just like this pepper but grows out at the same time red,bluish,yellow,orange,white and stripped or should say streaked green/purple and of course just purple.Beautiful plant is you want to try some i have thousands of seeds from that.Just p.m. me and I'll send ya some. I also have little blue pot, a small round bluish/purple pepper.Very pretty. Your tomato looks great.Do you give your tomato plants a good drink of Epsom salts water at the first blooms? They say that give you a bumper crop of tomato's.
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 1, 2012 6:09:56 GMT -6
good STOUT looking mator ya got there Mo...I like them pequins too...darned HOT fer their size
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 1, 2012 6:16:09 GMT -6
I have never given them epsom salts spray at bloom, Tell me more we have sprayed them with epsom salt to curb blight... However, when we sit the plants out, and two more times through the season. we add, 1 tablespoon per foot of plant height as a side dressing... may just give this a try... but, one question GH.. we raise indeterminate varieties...they bloom continuously... would/could a spray be applied more than once...possibly diluted...once a week??
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Post by w8in4dave on Apr 1, 2012 8:09:20 GMT -6
Here's a pic of the first hot pepper of this season, a Numex Bailey's chili pequin. Nice purple is my fav color I like maters also
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Post by Compost Pharmer on Apr 1, 2012 17:48:17 GMT -6
Phil, Tell me more about spraying for blight. Does it work for both early and late? For early, when do you start spraying? I am more concerned with early then late. Last year I got hit with early and only got 3 mators off of 6 plants. This year I want to have a successful harvest.
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Post by mogarden on Apr 2, 2012 5:16:18 GMT -6
These pequins start out purple, then yellow, orange, red. Hot in all colors. I like them 'cause they dry fast, grind up well and when you sprinkle it on an omelette say, it's spicy but the heat dies out fast.
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Post by Garden Happy on Apr 2, 2012 6:56:11 GMT -6
Phamer Phil this is what I know of epsom salts. It was found in Epsome England,hence the name It's magnesium contributes most of the benifit's to plants. But it contains 2 nutrients,magnisium 9.8%,critical to cell wall development and sulfur 12.9%that help seeds to germinate,increade palnt growth,and vitality,increase plants ability to take up nitrogen and phosphrus and increases chloraphyll levels in plants and yeilds. It can be used for all plants from conifers to coffee to alfalfa and vegetables. I have read on the package That you give 2 to 3 tablespoons per plant hole then each month sprinkle 1 per foot of plant at the base of the plant,scratch into soil. For vegetables 1 Tablespoon in a gallon og water monthly and 1 teaspoon per plant every 2 weeks during the growing season. Then at blooms a long good drink we give 1 cup of the water solution at every blooming. This information is on the PENNINGTON EPSOM SALT www.aapfco.org/metals.htmAnd yes,made in the good old USA!!! It also says to prepare seed beds work 2 cups of epsom salt into 100 square feet of planting area.suppose to help with bugs also,wish it killed mole crickets! (it does not ) www.penningtonseed.com
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 3, 2012 3:06:52 GMT -6
Phil, Tell me more about spraying for blight. Does it work for both early and late? For early, when do you start spraying? I am more concerned with early then late. Last year I got hit with early and only got 3 mators off of 6 plants. This year I want to have a successful harvest. Bro, I know that You know, but for the benefit of others...Prevention is the key to keeping your tomatoes Blight Free Stake or cage your mators to help prevent rot and problems coming from foliage contact with the soil .Allow adequate spacing between plants for good air circulation Water only at the base of the plant and *early in the day( Long periods of moisture on foliage encourage blight) *I know this is NOT practical for everyone...If you cannot water in the morning..prior to the morning sun on your garden...Water in the evening early enough that the leaf surfaces can dry thoroughly before darkROTATE>>ROTATE>>ROTATE... Plant tomatoes and related vegetables in a different spot in the garden every year. Don't plant tomatoes and potatoes next to each other since they both are susceptible to early and late blight. Early varieties seem to be less resistant to blights... and finally..if You are in an area (check with your local County Agent or Master Gardener) that is highly acceptable to blights.. You may want to consider planting resistant varieties... Unfortunately...resistant, is the operative word here and even these will succumb to blights if it is present... that being said... CP, I spray the area before tilling the area, after the soil is turned and after they are planted with Peroxide... ...normally they are large enough to go ahead and mulch around...which prevents "splash up" We also trim all the branches and foliage that is within a foot of the ground after that, I spray before any forecast cold/rainy stretches or wet warm sultry nights with STRONG compost tea/kelp mixture... alternating if the cool spell lasts with a Peroxide and Baking soda mixture (1 tablespoon of baking soda/1 cup of 3% peroxide per gallon of water) Just Keep a constant watch for any signs of blight or disease..If you find blight...it's your garden...You can attempt to "cure" the problem (highly unlikely)...and there is not alot of "organic" cures.... best there is that I know of (there may be new substances out there, so PLEASE correct me if I am mistaken) Use a copper or sulfur based fungicidal spray to treat the tomato plants. Spray the leaves until they are dripping wet. Best to use this spray when it is cloudy or first thing in the morning. NEVER USE it in full sun...or when it’s very hot outside Baking soda spray...although reported as good for killing fungi such as blight ...I find it more of a preventive Normally the infected plant should be carefully pulled, bagged on the spot and disposed of...NOT COMPOSTED...
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 3, 2012 3:19:23 GMT -6
we have Parson Pequins that CF sent Us...they are purty red when mature...size wise...small Heat wise...Hot lil buggers
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 3, 2012 3:24:38 GMT -6
Phamer Phil this is what I know of epsom salts. It was found in Epsome England,hence the name It's magnesium contributes most of the benifit's to plants. But it contains 2 nutrients,magnisium 9.8%,critical to cell wall development and sulfur 12.9%that help seeds to germinate,increade palnt growth,and vitality,increase plants ability to take up nitrogen and phosphrus and increases chloraphyll levels in plants and yeilds. It can be used for all plants from conifers to coffee to alfalfa and vegetables. I have read on the package That you give 2 to 3 tablespoons per plant hole then each month sprinkle 1 per foot of plant at the base of the plant,scratch into soil. For vegetables 1 Tablespoon in a gallon og water monthly and 1 teaspoon per plant every 2 weeks during the growing season. Then at blooms a long good drink we give 1 cup of the water solution at every blooming. This information is on the PENNINGTON EPSOM SALT www.aapfco.org/metals.htmAnd yes,made in the good old USA!!! It also says to prepare seed beds work 2 cups of epsom salt into 100 square feet of planting area.suppose to help with bugs also,wish it killed mole crickets! (it does not ) www.penningtonseed.comExcellent Info GH
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Post by mogarden on Apr 12, 2012 3:42:10 GMT -6
I haven't used epsom salts on my tomatoes. Does make a good soak for tired feet tho.
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Post by njm740 on Apr 12, 2012 19:25:23 GMT -6
Is that anything like Burton on Trent...
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Post by mogarden on Apr 17, 2012 16:11:02 GMT -6
Well I set out the last 4 pepper plants today, two to a bucket. Crowded I know. Bhuts in one, Bull's Horn in the other. I already have two other kinds of peppers out. Tomorrow I hope to set out the last of the dwarf tomatoes if I have the energy. Thur if not. Already seeing a little bug damage so I mixed some neem and re-applied the slug bait too.
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Apr 18, 2012 7:07:37 GMT -6
Well I set out the last 4 pepper plants today, two to a bucket. Crowded I know. Bhuts in one, Bull's Horn in the other. I already have two other kinds of peppers out. Tomorrow I hope to set out the last of the dwarf tomatoes if I have the energy. Thur if not. Already seeing a little bug damage so I mixed some neem and re-applied the slug bait too. glad you have the weather Mo...we be on rain delay
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Post by Garden Happy on Apr 29, 2012 1:49:23 GMT -6
I'm so exited .I just bought from territorial seed a grafted blue tomato plant!!!!!!!!!! I've been looking all over for the seeds for these.Now next year on the forth o fJuly i can make red,white and blue sliced tomato's!! This year will be as always red,white and blue potato salad. The boys and i are grafting tomato's with potato's for one of those potato,tomato,trees.Just for fun. Yes,were taking blight precausions
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Post by mogarden on Apr 29, 2012 15:13:36 GMT -6
I just found and killed a brown stinkbug adult. Lucky I was sitting practically next to the pepper plant. I thought it was a bee as it first flew up (no glasses), then it landed on the rim of the white bucket. Dead on arrival! Haven't found any more egg clusters but I keep looking.
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Post by mogarden on May 2, 2012 18:29:31 GMT -6
This not a giant tomato, probably never will be but it's the first fruit of 2012. It's huge, maybe OVER 1/4 inch! LOL
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Post by mogarden on May 27, 2012 10:07:26 GMT -6
A couple people wondered out loud if I'd lost it, putting up a 2x4 frame to tie 4 tomato plants onto. We do get storms here and I couldn't think of a sturdy way to stick them with the plants being grown in totes. So I tried it. Today is May 27, they have a ways to grow yet, so I'll need every bit of that frame, 6 ft.
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Post by Pharmer Phil on May 28, 2012 5:17:38 GMT -6
yep, looks like it'll top the 6ft. in no time Mo...some folks, or at least the ones that thought you "lost it" don't realize how big mators, especially indeterminate types...can get...Hey, print out the pics from our 2011 garden and show em' the 11' 10" plants we have pictured...maybe they will contribute some 2x4's to add to da top
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Post by mogarden on May 29, 2012 15:22:30 GMT -6
I got 4 bush cukes barely showing in that pic. They're in the other (near) end of a tote with an ind. tomato. I thought if I get a few cukes, can't hurt right? Blooms are showing today on 2 of them. ;D
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Post by Rita on May 29, 2012 15:32:11 GMT -6
I went with the bush cuc's this year too Mo .. I was hoping they would be easier to tend Then I am always like " Damn It I should of grown the other ones too "
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Post by mogarden on May 29, 2012 15:35:31 GMT -6
I was lucky to squeeze in what I've got, so I'll hopefully get enough to eat some fresh and a few "ice box pickles". By then the tomatoes will shade them out.
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Post by Rita on May 29, 2012 15:41:47 GMT -6
My youngest is allergic to store bought pickles .. so I make them .. IDK I think I can still stick a few of my go to plant seeds in the ground and see what happens .. Hopefully have a nice harvest .. its tough with limited space .. but you have a great bunch of plants going right now so hopefully you get some extra's My blackberries are LOADED this year .. thanks for the pruning tips
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Post by mogarden on Jun 6, 2012 4:09:39 GMT -6
Rita, I wonder what is in store-bought pickles that's not in homemade? Some of the spices? Sorry to hear he's allergic but glad you found a work-around. This is a pic of the first bloom on my luffa vine. I might try some recipes with them. The smaller ones are supposed to be edible.
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Post by Rita on Jun 6, 2012 5:02:19 GMT -6
I am thinking lime or something .. maybe alum
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Post by mogarden on Jun 12, 2012 11:49:12 GMT -6
Well here they are; the first tomato and cuke of 2012, picked today. I never had any earlier. Usually it's close or after July 1st for tomatoes around here.
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Post by spuds on Jun 12, 2012 12:07:42 GMT -6
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Post by Pharmer Phil on Jun 14, 2012 5:11:03 GMT -6
dang I wish our cukes were ready...they are just about to start vining...tomatoes, a few on, green of course... Thanks For sharing Mo!
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