Mildew on my mater seedlings

[peachfly]

Can mater seedlings with mildew still be planted? It's mostly on the peat pots but also on the potting soil of several. If they can be saved, should I use anything to get rid of it? I can't think of anything that would work except a fungicide or maybe a dilute solution of chlorox and I know that I don't want to use the fungicide. Tonight's their first night to stay outside; our low temp is supposed to be 62 but weather channel says rain for the next several days which should probably make the mildew worse. I was going to plant on 4/7 but could do it earlier if that would help. Theoretically we aren't supposed to get any more frost after today.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

[Pharmer Phil]

peachfly said:

Can mater seedlings with mildew still be planted? It's mostly on the peat pots but also on the potting soil of several. If they can be saved, should I use anything to get rid of it? I can't think of anything that would work except a fungicide or maybe a dilute solution of chlorox and I know that I don't want to use the fungicide. Tonight's their first night to stay outside; our low temp is supposed to be 62 but weather channel says rain for the next several days which should probably make the mildew worse. I was going to plant on 4/7 but could do it earlier if that would help. Theoretically we aren't supposed to get any more frost after today.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Peach, is this on the plant, or just the soil and pot?
Is it, in your best judgement, mildew?

can the plants be moved to an aera with better sunlight/air circulation...
We use plain old out of the bottle peroxide here as a fungicide, mixed 1 cup tp a gsllon of water, I will check my notes on using bleach, I know it can be used to pre-treat seeds, but at this early hour I only remember that You can't use any scented bleach...and not sure about seedlings.

[peachfly]

Phil, this stuff showed up after leaving 12 of the larger plants overnight (in the house) in the 10"x20" plastic tray I move them around in. Last night when I left them outside, I spaced them several inches apart. When checking on them this a.m, it appears that most of the stuff that was on the soil has disappeared but there is still some on the peat pots. This makes me think your air circulation suggestion is the problem.

As to whether it is actually mildew, all I can say is that is what it looks like. Most of the plants look healthy...the one that is puny was puny before the mildew or whatever appeared. I can get peroxide easily enough. Could I dip the pots in the 1c/1gal solution without letting them stay long enough for to soak into the soil? Or should I soak the soil?

[Pharmer Phil]

peachfly said:

Phil, this stuff showed up after leaving 12 of the larger plants overnight (in the house) in the 10"x20" plastic tray I move them around in. Last night when I left them outside, I spaced them several inches apart. When checking on them this a.m, it appears that most of the stuff that was on the soil has disappeared but there is still some on the peat pots. This makes me think your air circulation suggestion is the problem.

As to whether it is actually mildew, all I can say is that is what it looks like. Most of the plants look healthy...the one that is puny was puny before the mildew or whatever appeared. I can get peroxide easily enough. Could I dip the pots in the 1c/1gal solution without letting them stay long enough for to soak into the soil? Or should I soak the soil?

I think your problem will clear up altogether peachfly, take the peroxide solution and spray it on the pots and soil.
this spray is used every two weeks here during the season as a spray, even eliminated a downy mildew situation on one plant that we found some on.

those peat pots, used to use them myself, have since given up on hem, not enough water, they dry out, too much they get moldy, or green, or fall apart WAYYYY b4 it's time to go in the garden....

[peachfly]

I'll make up a peroxide solution and spray today. As to the peat pots, I use them because I seem to have a tendency to overwater and with the peat I know when they start to dry out its time for more water. I've got to refine my routine for next year (need more space and more light) so maybe I'll try to grow in something else. My plants would be better off if they could just wave their little leaves and shout Hey Dummy, its time to water us. LOL

As always, thanks so much for you help, Phil.

[Pharmer Phil]

My plants would be better off if they could just wave their little leaves and shout Hey Dummy, its time to water us. LOL

Peachfly, if there was anyone thing that I'd think they should, or could breed into plants, it would be this capability

we all ferget once in awhile...

[Spruance]

Rather than use chemicals, especially on a food plant such as tomatoes, why not try the organic option?

If you mix one part milk with 9 parts water and spray the plants on a weekly basis it should clear up the problem.

Have a look at this.

[peachfly]

Very interesting article, Spruance. Thanks for the reference. The more organic and less chemical I can garden, the happier I am.

[Spruance]

It works too! I had mildew on an Acer platanoides Crimson Sentry for two years running until I found out about the milk and water 'cure'.

It took a while because the tree was completely covered at one point but it's been mildew free ever since.

[Pharmer Phil]

Good article Spruance, I use milk applications for downy mildew.
Hydorgen peroxide tho, just to verify, is as organic as it comes, Our own immune system produces and uses hydrogen peroxide to control bacteria and viruses.

[Spruance]

Sorry Phil I didn't realise. I just associate hydrogen peroxide with bleaching hair, so couldn't understand why anyone would want to use it on tomatoes.

Another effective cure I have found for fungal growth on seedlings is to fill a hand held sprayer with water and add a few drops of tea tree oil. It seems to do the trick and doesn't do any harm either.

[Pharmer Phil]

Thats quite alright Spruance, there are several substances approved for organic production that folks don't realize.
And, with that being said, there are substances approved for Organic production, That I would NOT use...
even though they are appoved by the National Organic Program (NOP)
Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) is present in our bodies and atmosphere,

Besides it's use as a fungicide, applied to the soil, it's spontaneous decomposition releases oxygen that enhances a plant's root development and helps to treat root rot (cellular root death due to lack of oxygen).
In 1993, back in Missouri where I am from, we had a severe flood, many perennial plantings were in real danger of dying off, we purchased large quantities of H₂O₂ and drenched the soil in and around the root zone, which saved a majority of the plants from the waterlogged soil.

[jack]

Gidday

Hey Phil,what strength hydrogen peroxide to you buy. Like is it a commercial strength of 50% or just the old 6% stuff. And by one cup tp could you please tell me how much that is, like in mls or ounces.

[Pharmer Phil]

jack said:

Gidday

Hey Phil,what strength hydrogen peroxide to you buy. Like is it a commercial strength of 50% or just the old 6% stuff. And by one cup tp could you please tell me how much that is, like in mls or ounces.

Jack, sorry mate, how unusal for me not to detail further...
whats readily available here in the stores/pharmacies is 3% H₂O₂

and thats 8 ounces to 1 gallon (3.7 )of water, for sprayer.
now, I'd have to have more coffee and do some figurin for the 5% jack...

[jack]

Gidday

Thanks for that mate. It don't seem very strong mix but peroxide sure is a great stuff and this is the first time I have heard of it being used as a garden spray.

A bottle of 50% sure would go a long way at those dilution rates Eh!